So Did I.


I took my first trip to Fiuggi in 2019. I dragged my entire family along with me and it was honestly one of the most rewarding and meaningful experiences of my life. It was everything I expected and more. We met cousins who gave us the full tour. I saw the house my grandfather was born in, drank out of the nearby fountain, and woke up to the bells, just as I had imagined. It sounds cliche to say, but it truly was a dream come true. I was more intent than ever on making it my full-time reality.
And soon enough it was. I moved there a couple of years after that first trip (I would have moved sooner, but Covid had other plans) and it didn’t take long for the cracks to show. You see, there’s an enormous difference between visiting a place for a few days and living there full time. This may seem obvious to you, but in all likelihood you’re underestimating just how much of a difference there really is. During a short visit, that quaint corner market with the cranky nonna behind the counter is charming. But when you’re just absolutely craving tacos or peanut butter or anything other than Italian food (and you will, I promise!) and that market is your only grocery store, the charm wears thin pretty quickly.

And even if you’re satisfied with a diet of all Italian food all the time, you better get your shopping done early, because the store closes at 1pm. In fact the entire town closes at 1pm. If you’re lucky, they’ll open back up around 5pm, but if they were having a particularly nice riposo they might decide it’s not worth it. Oh, you think you’d just go out to a restaurant in that case? Maybe grab some take out somewhere? Well the only restaurant in town is shut down for the month while the family who runs it is on vacation. You better hope you have a can of tuna squirreled away in the back of a cabinet somewhere, or you’re going to bed hungry.
And don’t get me started on the staring. As a new face in a small town in Italy, EVERYONE stares at you ALL THE TIME. I’ve lived in three small towns in Italy at this point and the staring has been a constant in each one. As someone who has been the new face in my fair share of small towns in the US, I’d never experienced anything even remotely like it before. Even after an entire year of living in one town, I was still gawked at like a zoo animal every time I left the house.
So what’s my advice to any American thinking of moving to a small Italian town? Go for it!

But don’t be surprised if you eventually grow tired of it, and absolutely don’t let it sour you on Italy as whole. I almost gave up on this place when the shine of Fiuggi started to wear off, and I had my return ticket to the US nearly booked when Corleone didn’t live up to expectations either. But I eventually found my place in a larger city and now you couldn’t pay me enough to ever leave Italy.
At the end of the day, the moral is that you’re probably not going to find the perfect fit for you right off the bat. No matter what visions you have for your Italian life or how much research you’ve done, the reality won’t match it. So be flexible and don’t give up until you’ve seen the full range of what this wonderful country has to offer.
